服装英文翻译Word文档格式.docx
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服装英文翻译Word文档格式.docx
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影响的方面服装可用性
学院轻纺与食品学院
专业服装设计与工程
学生姓名钟炯
学号*************年级2012级
指导教师李晓蓉
教务处制表
二Ο一六年六月三日
6thInternationalConferenceonAppliedHumanFactorsandErgonomics(AHFE2015)andtheAffiliatedConferences,AHFE2015
FashionandErgonomicDesign:
Aspectsthatinfluencetheperceptionofclothingusability
É
ricaP.dasNevesa*,AlineC.Brigattoa,LuisC.Paschoarellia
aUNESP–Univ.EstadualPaulista,Av.Eng.LuizEdmundoC.Coube14-01,Bauru17033-360,Brazil
Abstract
Therelevantissuesaboutclothinghavebeenincreasinginrecenttimes.Theincreasenumberofconsumersandusersthatsearchfordifferentiatedandappropriateproductstotheirneedsandexpectationsisimpactingonthedesignstagesaswellasonmanufacturingprocess.Thustheunderstandingofspecifiedsegmentsofconsumersandusersemergesasacompetitivestrategythatisfavourabletothedevelopmentofproductsthatareadequateandsatisfactorytodifferentindividuals.Regardingthefashioncontext,theclothingproductprovidestotheemotionallevelchannelsofsignificationandsubjectiveidentification.Consideringthedirectcontactbetweenclothinganduser,theinformationaboutanthropometricbiomechanicalandergonomicareofextremerelevanceforthedevelopmentofmodellingthatareappropriatedtodifferentneedsofdifferentsegmentsofusers.
©
2015TheAuthors.PublishedbyElsevierB.V.
Peer-reviewunderresponsibilityofAHFEConference.
Keywords:
Fashion,ErgonomicDesign,Anthropometric,Usability
1.Introduction
Therelevantissuesaboutclothinghavebeenincreasinginrecenttimes.Theincreasenumberofconsumersandusersthatsearchfordifferentiatedandappropriateproductstotheirneedsandexpectationsisimpactingonthedesignstagesaswellasonmanufacturingprocess.
Thustheunderstandingofspecifiedsegmentsofconsumersandusersemergesasacompetitivestrategythatisfavorabletothedevelopmentofproductsthatareadequateandsatisfactorytodifferentindividuals.Consideringthedirectintegrationoftheclothingwiththeskinandthetopographyofthebody,thegarmentgeneratesvalueofjudgmentinherenttotheperceptionoftheaspectsofusability,pleasantness,comfort,enjoymentandsatisfactionregardingtheneedsofthesubject.
Fromthisprinciple,ergonomicdesignprovidestoolsthatwhenappliedduringthestagesofclothingconception,maybeabletodirectmorepreciselythecharacteristicsoftheproductinfavorofsafety,efficiencyandcomfort.Inordertounderstandthecomplexityoftheintegrationofbodyandclothing,thestudyofanatomyandbodymovementarenecessary.Itisimportanttounderstandthebalanceplansoftheentirebodyaswellastheitsmovementssuchasflexion,extensionandother[1].
Inthisway,themultiandinterdisciplinaryinteractionbetweenprojectofclothingandergonomicdesigncontributestotheprogressandtotheresolutionoftheprojectofclothingprojects.Theunderstandingsoftheconceptsofusability,comfortandergonomicswhicharespecificofcertaingroups(niches)arenecessaryinordertoobtainfashionpatternsthatadequatelymeetstotheirexpectationandrequirements.
1.1.ThemetamorphosisofFashion
Throughouttheevolutionofsocieties,fashioncontributedtotheidentificationofsocialandidentityroleofthesubjectsbyhierarchicaluseofdifferentclothesandaccessories.Itssymboliccharacterisareflectionofsubjectiveandculturalaspirationsofacertainperiod,which,inturn,significantlyreflectonthephysicalandconstructiveaspectsoffashionproducts,especiallyclothing.
Withrespecttothesymbolic,physicalandmaterialsaspectsofclothing,itcanbenoticedaninfinityoftransformationthatexpressedthesocial,culturalandtechnologicalcontextofagivenperiod.Ingeneral,theclothinghasgonethroughaprocessofsimplification,especiallyfromthedecadeof1800.Thisphenomenonisprimarilyduetonewindustrialtechnologies,tohigherdemandsofproductsandtotheadaptationtonewmanufacturingprocess.
Asanexample,therevolutioninwomen'
sclothingledbyFrenchdesignerPaulPoiretintheearlytwentiethcenturycanbementioned.Thankstothefashioncreator,thewomen'
sclothesweresimplifiedbecominglighter,thusfacilitatingthemovementsofbody[2].Thefashioninnovationbrokewiththerigidstructureofthecorsetsthatmadepressureonwoman’sabdomeninordertocreateanddefineaslimwaist,aprotuberantbustandastraightposture.Thestylistalsoproposedalightersilhouette,deepernecklines(mainlythe"
V”model),apparentshoulder,ampleshapes,andothermodelingvariations.
Ingeneral,throughouthistory,avarietyofsocial,culturalandprofessionalpracticeshavecontributedtoamoreefficientandrealisticviewabouttheneedsoftheindividualandoftheirdailytasks.Duetothistrendandtheindustriallogicoflarge-scaleproductionbetween1950and1960,thefashionhasbecomemoredemocratic,andtherefore,theuserbegantobeperceivedwithmorerelevancebycompaniesinthesector.
ThenewphasewascharacterizedbywhatcametobeknowninFranceasprê
t-à
-porter,andintheUnitedStatesasreadytowear.Rigidity,ostentationandexclusivityofthehautecouturewerenolongerconsistentwiththeneweconomic,culturalanddemographicrealitiesofthepostwaryears.Therewasaneedformoreagilityandquantityofproducts.Thusarapidproductionsystembegantobepracticedundernewindustrialcharacteristicsthatwereadaptedtotheincreasingdemandsofgarmentsproduct[3,4].
Thenewindustrialsystempromotedgreattransformationwithinthecreativeanddevelopmentprocessoffashionproducts.Thedemandforproductsincreasedsignificantlyduetonewsocialgroupswhichhadhigherpurchasingpowerandnewformsofconsumptionestablishedwiththeadventofmechanizationandmassproduction.Consequently,thesystemwasquicklydisseminatedthroughseveralregionsoftheworld,favoringthestrengthening
ofthetextileandapparelindustry.Thedesignandplanningstagesofclothingincreasinglyimprovedconcerningtonewtextileandindustrialtechnologies,aswellasbecamemoresensitivetosocialandculturalmovements.
Thehedonisticconsumptionwasbecomingincreasinglypresent,intensifiedprimarlybyaestheticandsymbolicelementsoffashionproducts.Consequently,theindustryhadtobeopenedtotheperceptionsanddesiresofasocietyincreasinglyfocusedonthepresent,onthenewandonthepossibilitiesofidentityexpression.Theyouthgroups,forinstance,wereasegmentofconsumerwhichsignificantlyinfluencedguidelinesofdevelopmentandproductionofafewfashionproductsoverthecourseofthedecadesaftertheconsolidationoftheindustrialsystem[3].
Withthepostmodernismideas,marketsbecamemorecomplexandwerenolongerlargeandhomogeneous.Thenewtendencyofconsumptionledtheindustrytodivideintosmallerandsmallersegments,whichwereidentifiedbydifferentneedsandexpectationsofindividuals[5].
Inthisscenario,consumerscametobeperceivedasdeterminingfactorinproductdevelopmentofproducts.Asinpreviousperiods,theiractions,desiresandexpectationsinducedsignificantlythecorrectsizingoftheproducts,consideringaesthetic,physical,practicalandfunctionalaspects.Thesefactors,inturn,begantodeterminenewconstructivemethodologiesforgarmentproducts.Theaspectsoffashionpatternbegantobecomemoreprominent,especiallydueitsfocusontheassertivenessoftheproduct.Thetargetaudiencebegantobeanalyzedandconsidered,especiallywhenindustriesrealizedthattoincreasetheproductionandsales,itwasnecessarytostimulatetheconsumptionmustbeeffectiveandcontinuous.Buyingandhavingwereactionsthatwereabletoconstruetheindividualsubjectivitythroughnon-verbalelements,reflectingonhowthesubjectwouldbeperceived.
Inthecontextofindustrialization,someergonomicknowledgearisingfromWorldWarIIbegantobeinserted[6].Withtheindustrialproduction,clothingpatternsofshapesandsizing/measuresbegantobeessentialinordertocoverthedimensionalstandardsofsomeindividualvariations[6].Whenwell-knowtheuser,recognizingtheirneeds,capabilitiesandlimitations,itispossibletoidentifyinadvancetheoccurrenceofaccidents,healthdamagesanddiscomfort[6].Consequently,theindividualsaregraduallybeingseenasusersandnotjustasmereconsumers.
Alliedtothis,themarketsegmentationbegantooffervariationsinfunctionalbenefitsaswellasmoreattentiontowardsthehedonisticneeds[5].Mainlywiththepostmodernismadvent,theresearcherswithusersandconsumersbegantoextrapolatetheaspectsofmarketingandadvertising.Theimagemanipulationrealizedbymedia,especiallyaftermid-1950s,werenolongersufficientgiventhevastnessofproductsthatconstitutethemarket.Inthepost-industrialsocietytheostentatiousaspectsoftheproductwerenolongersufficienttotheuserorconsumer,becomingtheexperienceandtheemotionbothaspectsofsignificantimportancetothequalityofaproduct[7].
Regardingthefashioncontext,theclothingproductprovidestotheemotionallevelchannelsofsignificationandsubjectiveidentification.Besidessymbolicandaestheticelementsandcomposition,itgivesindistinguishabletoolsforthepromotionofaffectivestatestoindividual[8].
Thus,thebasicfunctionsofclothingextrapolatethefunctionofdressingandcoveringthebodyandareassociatedwiththesocialconditionsofsubjectivityandconstructionofidentity[8].Consideringitsdirectcontactwiththetopographyofthebodyandtheskin,thefashionproductgene
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