Bohemian style英语Word格式.docx
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Bohemian style英语Word格式.docx
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BloomsburyGroup"
whichformedaroundtheStephensisters,VanessaBellandVirginiaWoolfintheearly20thcentury,areamongthebest-knownexamples.Theoriginal"
Bohemians"
weretravelersorrefugeesfromcentralEurope(hence,theFrenchbohé
mien,for"
gypsy"
).
Reflectingonthefashionstyleof"
boho-chic"
intheearlyyearsofthe21stcentury,theSundayTimesthoughtitironicthat"
fashionablegirlsworerufflyfloralskirtsinthehopeoflookingbohemian,nomadic,spiritedandnon-bourgeois"
whereas"
gypsygirlsthemselves...aresexyanddelightfulpreciselybecausetheydonotgiveahootforfashion"
[1].Bycontrast,inthelate19thcenturyandfirsthalfofthe20th,aspectsofBohemianfashionreflectedthelifestyleitself.
Pre-Raphaelites
JaneMorrispaintedbyDanteGabrielRossettiasProserpine(1874)
In1848WilliamMakepeaceThackerayusedthewordbohemianisminhisnovelVanityFair.In1862,theWestminsterReviewdescribedaBohemianas"
simplyanartistorlitté
rateurwho,consciouslyorunconsciously,secedesfromconventionalityinlifeandinart"
.Duringthe1860sthetermwasassociatedinparticularwiththepre-Raphaelitemovement,thegroupofartistsandaesthetesofwhichDanteGabrielRossettiwasthemostprominent[2]:
Asthe1860sprogressed,Rossettiwouldbecomethegrandprinceofbohemianismashisdeviationsfromnormalstandardsbecamemoreaudacious.Andashebecemethisepitomeoftheunconventional,hisegocentricdemandsnecessarilyrequiredhisclosefriendstoremodeltheirownlivesaroundhim.Hisbohemianismwaslikeawebinwhichothersbecametrapped–nonemoresothanWilliamandJaneMorris[3].
JaneMorrisandpre-Raphaelitetraits
JaneMorris,whowastobecomeRossetti'
smuse,epitomised,probablymorethananyofthewomenassociatedwiththepre-Raphaelites,anunrestricted,flowingstyleofdressthat,whileunconventionalatthetime,wouldbehighlyinfluentialatcertainperiodsduringthe20thcentury[4].Sheandothers,includingthemuchlessoutlandishGeorgianaBurne-Jones(wifeofEdwardBurne-Jones),eschewedthecorsetsandcrinolinesofthemidtolateVictorianera[5],afeaturethatimpressedtheAmericanwriterHenryJameswhenhewrotetohissisterin1869ofthebohemianatmosphereoftheMorrises’houseintheBloomsburydistrictofLondonand,inparticular,the“darksilentmedieval”presenceofitschateleine:
It’shardtosaywhethershe’sagrandsynthesisofallthepre-Raphaelitepicturesevermade…whethershe’sanoriginaloracopy.Ineithercaseshe’sawonder.Imagineatallleanwomaninalongdressofsomedeadpurplestuff,guiltlessofhoops(orofanythingelseIshouldsay)withamassofcrispblackhairheapedintogreatwavyprojectionsoneachofhertemples…alongneck,withoutanycollar,andinlieuthereofsomedozenstringsofoutlandishbeads[6].Early20thcentury
"
Bundle"
BrentinTheSevenDialsMystery(AgathaChristie,1929)
Thepre-Raphaelitelookwasstillconsidered"
advanced"
inthelateyearsofthe19thcentury[7],bywhenmovements,suchastheRationalDressSociety(1881),withwhichtheMorrisesandGeorgianaBurne-Joneswereinvolved,werebeginningtoexercisesomeinfluenceonwomen'
sdress.However,itwasnotreallyuntiltheFirstWorldWarthat"
manyworkingwomen...embarkedonarevoultioninfashionthatgreatlyreducedtheweightandrestrictionsimposedonthembytheirclothing"
[8].Somewomenworkinginfactoriesworetrousersandthebrassierebegangraduallytosupersedethecorset[9].Bytheearly1920s,whathadbeenawartimeexpedient-theneedtoeconomiseonmaterial-hadbecomeastatementoffreedombyyoungwomen,manifestedbyshorterhemlines(justabovethekneeby1925-6[10])andboyishhairstyles,accompaniedbywhatRobertGravesandAlanHodgedescribedas"
thenewfantasticdevelopmentofJazzmusic"
[11].ThePenguinSocialHistoryofBritainnotedthat"
bythe1920snewspaperswerefilledwithadvertisementsfor'
lingerie'
and'
undies'
whichwouldhavebeenclassedasindecentagenerationearlier"
[12].Thus,inAgathaChristie'
snovel,TheSevenDialsMystery(1929),thearistocraticheroine,Lady"
Brent,woreonly"
anegligibletrifle"
underherdress;
likemanyreallife"
itgirls"
ofherclass,shehadbeenfreedfromthe"
genteelexpectations"
ofearliergenerations[13].
Lookingbackatthisperiod,GravesandHodgenotedtheprotractedcoursethat"
daringfemalefashionshadalwaystaken...frombrotheltostage,thenontoBohemia,toSociety,toSociety'
smaids,tothemill-girlandlastlytothesuburbanwoman"
[14].
The"
Dorelia"
look
AmongfemaleBohemiansintheearly20thcentury,the"
gypsylook"
wasarecurringtheme,popularisedby,amongothers,Dorothy"
McNeill(1881-1969),muse,loverandsecondwifeofthepainterAugustusJohn(1878-1961),whosefullskirtsandbrightcoloursgaverisetotheso-called"
Dorelialook"
[15].KatherineEverett,né
eOlive,aformerstudentoftheSladeSchoolofArtinLondon,hasdescribedMcNeil'
s"
tightfitting,hand-sewn,canarycolouredbodiceaboveadarkgatheredflowingskirt,andherhairveryblackandgleaming,emphasiz[ing]thelongsilverearringswhichwereheronlyadornment"
[16].
EverettrecalledalsotheJohns'
woods"
withwildcherrytreesinblossom,and...amodelwithflyingredhair,cladinwhite,beingchasedinandoutofthetreesbynudechildren"
.[17].Withsimilarlackofinhibition,asearlyas1907theAmericanheiressNatalieBarney(1875-1972)wasleadinglike-mindedwomeninsapphicdancesinherParisiangarden[18],photographsofwhichlooklittledifferentfromscenesatWoodstockin1969andother“pop”festivalsofthelate1960sandearly70s.
Bobbedhairandcross-genderstyles
Bycontrast,shortbobbedhairwasoftenaBohemiantrait[19],havingoriginatedinParisc.1909andbeenadoptedbystudentsattheSlade[20]severalyearsbeforeAmericanfilmactressessuchasColleenMooreandLouiseBrooksbecameassociatedwithitinthemid1920s.Thisstylewasplainlydiscernibleonawoodblockself-portraitof1916byDoraCarrington,whohadenteredtheSladein1910[21].Ashorterstyle,knownasthe"
Etoncrop"
becamepopulararound1926[22]:
onherarrivalinTilling(Rye)inEFBenson'
scomicnovelMappandLucia(1931),Luciadescribed"
Quaint"
Ireneas"
agirlwithnohatandanEtoncrop.Shewasdressedinafisherman'
sjerseyandknickerbockers"
.Formanyyearstriteassumptionswereoftenmadeaboutthesexualityofwomenwithcroppedhairstyles;
anhistorianofthe1980swroteoftheGreenhamCommon"
peacecamp"
inEnglandthatit"
broughtpublicawarenesstofeministseparationandeventolesbianism,hithertoseeninthemassmedia-whenacknowledgedatall-eitherintermsofEton-croppedandrogynyorofpornographicfantasy"
.[23].
Onesocialhistorianhasobservedthat"
theinnocuouswoollenjersey,nowknown[inBritain]asthejumperorthepullover,wasthefirstitemofclothingtobecomeinterchangeablebetweenmenandwomenand,assuch,wasseenasadangeroussymptomofgenderconfusion"
[24].Trousersforwomen,sometimeswornmannishlyasanexpressionofsexuality(asbyMarleneDietrichinthe1930film,Morocco)alsobecamepopularinthe1920sand30s,asdidaspectsofwhatmanyyearslaterwouldsometimesbereferredtoas"
shabbychic"
.WinstonChurchill'
snieceClarissawasamongthosewhoworeatailoredsuitinthelate1930s.[25]
Post-LiberationParis
Café
deFlore,Saint-Germain-des-Prè
s,Paris:
hauntofpost-warbohemians
AftertheSecondWorldWarChristianDior'
NewLook"
launchedinParisin1947,setthepatternforwomen'
sfashiongenerallyuntilthe1960s.AmericaninfluenceshadbeendiscouragedduringtheNazioccupation,but,notablyintheformofbe-bopandothertypesofjazz,werestrongamongintellectualcafé
societyinthemidtolate1940s.[26]In1947,Samedi-Soirliftedthelidonwhatitcalledthe"
troglodytesofSaint-Germain"
[27]namelybohemiansoftheParisiandistrictofSaint-Germain-des-Pré
s,whoappearedtoclusteraroundexistentialistphilosopherJean-PaulSartre.TheseincludedRogerVadim(whomarriedandlaunchedthecareerofactressBrigitteBardotinthe1950s),novelistBorisVian(sincedescribedas"
theepitomeofLeftBankbohemia,standingatthecenterofitspostwarrehabilitation"
[28])andsingerJulietteGré
co.
Incontrasttothe"
(whichitselfscandalisedsomeParisennes),theclothesofthepost-warbohemianswerepredominantlyblack:
whenGré
cofirstperformedoutsideSaint-Germainsheaffrontedsomeofheraudiencebywearing"
blacktrousers,herbarefeetslippedintogoldensandals"
.[29]PerforminginLondonoverfiftyyearslater,Gré
cowasdescribedas"
stillooz[ing]bohemianstyle"
.[30]
Saint-Germaininretrospect
Capturingthespiritofthetime,DavidProfumohaswrittenofhowhismother,theactressValerieHobson,wasentrancedbyVadim'
sflatmate,thedirectorMarcAllé
gret,whileshewasfilmingBlancheFuryin1947:
Allé
gret'
sapparentlybohemianlifestyleappealedsharplytoherromanticside...andsherevelledintheLeftBankmilieutowhichheintroducedherduringscriptdiscussionsinParis.ThereweremealswithAndré
Gide,JeanCocteauandthelong-leggedZiziJeanmaire.ForanattractiveBritishwomanwhofeltdeprivedofattention...thiswasanidealsituationforsomesortofreawakening.[31
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