Tokyo 东京.docx
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Tokyo 东京.docx
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Tokyo东京
Tokyo东京
ThesheerlevelofenergyisthemoststrikingaspectofJapan'scapitalcity.Tokyoremainsaglitteringexampleofthe'miracle'ofpostWorldWarIIJapan.Streetsarelinedwithtinyspecialistshopsandbustlingrestaurants,mostofwhichstayopenlateintothenight.ClosetothesoaringofficeblocksexistpocketsofanotherTokyo-anoldwoodenhouse,aJapaneseinn,anoldladyinakimonosweepingthepavementoutsideherhomewithastrawbroom.Morethananythingelse,Tokyoisaplacewheretheurgentrhythmsofconsumerculturecollidewiththequietermomentsthatlingerfromoldertraditions.
SpringisthebesttimetovisitTokyo,particularlyascherryblossomsbegintoappearinearlyAprilandthisiswhenthecityisatitsmostbeautiful.Autumnisnotabadtimetovisiteither,withitscooltemperaturesandmanycleardays,whilewinterismarkedbytheoccasionalsnowfallbutrarelyfreezingconditions.Thecitycanbeanunpleasantplaceduringsummer,whentorrentialdownpoursandmugginesscombinewiththecrowdedpublictransporttoweardownyourcalmvisitor'sfa?
ade.
ImperialPalace
TheJapaneseemperorandtheimperialfamilystillcalltheImperialPalacehome,sounlessyougetaroyalinvitetoteatouristsarerestrictedtotheoutskirtsandthegardens.NewYear'sDay(2January)and23December(theEmperor'sbirthday)aretheonlyexceptionstothisrule.
ThebiggestdrawcardoftheImperialPalace,bothliterallyandmetaphorically,isEdo-jocastle.Fromthe17thcenturyuntiltheMeijiRestoration,itwasusedastheimpregnablefortressoftherulingshogunate.Overtheyearsthecastlewasupgraded,addedto,renovatedandbuiltontowithalltheforceofarabidrenovator.ForawhileitwasthelargestcastleintheworldbutalltheDIY'ingcametoanabruptendwhenlargeportionsofitweredestroyedinthetransferofpowerfromshogunbacktoemperorduringtheMeijiRestoration.
TheImperialEastGardenisenteredthroughoneofthreegatesalthoughthemostpopularistheOte-mon,whichwasoncetheprinciplegateofEdo-jo.ThegardenisanoasisofquietafterthebustleofTokyo,andcharacteristicallyJapanese;ahorizonofclearlines,anattentiontodetailandthereligiousplacementofobjectswithinthelandscape.
TokyoDisneyland
Youcouldbeforgivenforassumingthatthecountrythatinventedfakewaveswouldjumpatthechancetoout-DisneyDisneyland,soitcomesassomethingofashocktoseesuchuncharacteristicrestraint.SurprisinglyMickeyMouse,DonaldDuckandmostofWalt'sotherempire-buildingprototypeshavebeenrespectfullyleftaloneandmuchofTokyoDisneylandisanexactreplicaoftheCalifornianamusementpark.
Shinjuku
TheShinjukudistrictis,withoutdoubt,themostvigorouspartofTokyo;twomillionpeopleperdaypassthroughShinjukustationalone.Withatotallackofironyortongue-in-cheekness,thetwosides-eastandwest-sitside-by-sideinmutualharmony;westShinjukuisthestaid,buttoned-downcommercialhubofthecity,whiletheeastisitscolourful,seedyandexoticcounterpart.Thewestisplanned,administrativeandskyscrapped,whiletheeastsideisrambling,chaoticandfulloffast-foodshopsandpawnshops.
Wanderingtheeastsideyou'llbeabletoseetheentireworldgobywhilesimultaneouslyhavingyoursensesassaultedbyarchetypalBladeRunnervideobillboardsontheStudioAltabuilding,apopularmeetingplaceforTokyoites.Othereast-sideattractionsincludeHanazona-jinjashrine,themanydepartmemtstoresandthecolourfulifrisqueKabukichoandGoldenGaiareas.
SonyBuilding
TheSonybuilding,attheSukiyabashiintersection,isamust-seeforallthecyberjunkies,digital-devotees,andPlaystationgroupies.AnyelectronicgizmothathaseverbeeninventedishereintheSonybuilding,aswellassomeyet-to-be-retailedprototypes.Withmostofthedisplaysbeingahands-onproposition,it'sanoversizedkid'sarcade.
Thebuildingitselfisaratherphlegmaticversionofthesixties-alotoffunctionoverform-butwitheightstoriesofunadulteratedelectronicheavenwhocaresaboutthepackaging.
Ginza
Despiteitsdisaster-riddenhistoryandpropensityforshape-changing,Ginzahasbecomesynonymouswithconspicuousconsumptionandexcessiveshopping.Attheendofthe19thcentury,afterfirerazedittotheground,itwasressurectedinaLondon-cum-faux-ParisianstylewithbrickbuildingsandwideboulevardsthatmimickedtheChampsElysses.Sincethen,earthquakesandWWIIcarpet-bombinghasseenitgraduallytransformfromcontinentalchictotrans-atlanticfunctional,butitstillpullsthecrowds.
TherearesomejejeuneshoppingdistrictsthathavetriedtowrestlethecrownfromGinza-they'remorecrowded,moreopulentandhipper-butthegrandeolddameofostentatiousspendingstillsretainsherimperioussnobvalue.Seriousshoppersdon'tleavetownwithoutswingingthroughthedoorsofMatsuya,MitsukoshandWakodepartmentstores.TheGinzastripiswhereyoucanpurchasenoveltyitemswhosefetishisticvaluefaroutweighitsfunctionalvalue,andindulgeinaspotofretailtherapy.Windowshoppingisfree,though,andthewindowdisplaysinthedepartmentstoresareworksofinstallationartinthemselves.
Ueno-koenpark
IfGinzaisforshopping,Ueno-koenParkisforstrolling,museum-hoppingandtemple-gazing.TheareaofUenowashistoricallytheAlamoofthelastshogunate-siteofhisfutilelast-ditchefforttopreventatakeoverbytheimperialarmy.Todayit'sacarefullylandscapedparkdottedwithmuseums,templesandanot-half-badzoo.
AttractionsinsidetheparkincludetheTokyoMetropolitanMuseumofArt(ifcontemporaryartisyourbagthisisagoodplacetostart),theTokyoNationalMuseum,theNationalScienceMuseum,theNationalMuseumofWesternArt(notonlydoesthebuildinghousesomeimpressiveexamplesofwesternart,thebuildingitselfwasbuiltbyLeCorbusierandthegardencontainsoriginalRodinsincludinghisiconicsculpture,TheThinker),theTokyoMetropolitanFestivalHallandtheUeno-no-MoriArtMuseum,whichoftenhascalligraphyexhibitionsscheduled.
OneofthemostfrequentlyandferventlypatronisedtemplesinUeno-koenparkistheKiyomizuKannon-doTemple.Womenwishingtoconceiveleaveadollhereforthe1000-armedgoddesssenjuKannon;afterthedollsareburntinanannualbonfireon25September,thewomenwaittoseeifKannonhasgrantedthemthegiftoffertility.
HamaRikyuDetachedPalaceGarden
TheHamaRikyuDetachedPalaceGarden,southofTokyocentral,is25hectares(62acres)ofTokyo'sgreenest,andmostfinelylandscaped,piecesofrealestate.Inthe17thcenturyitwasthehappyhuntinggroundfortheTokugawashogunatebutpassedintothehandsofthegoodcitizensofTokyo,postWorldWarII.Theparkisactuallyonanisland,cutofffromthesurroundingmetropolisbyanancientwalledmoatandaccessiblebyonlyoneentranceovertheNanmonBridge.
TheParkisapopularvenueforastrollbecauseitfeelsdeceptivelylargeandhasanunusualemphasisonwater.ThehugeShioriPondisafocalpointforvisitorsbutitstidalpools,teahouses,bridges,pinetrees,andpavilionsformoon-watchingallcontributetothegarden'scharmandphotogenicappeal.
AnentryfeeensuresthattheHamaRikyuisoneofthequieterandless-congestedareasofTokyo,althoughtheUS'3entryfeeiswaivedfordisabledtravellersandonecompanion.
TokyoNationalMuseum
TheTokyoNationalMuseumisoneplaceworthgoingoutofyourwaytovisit.ItholdsJapan'slargestcollectionofJapaneseart,aswellasanumberoffinesculpturesandanotinconsiderablenumberofantiquities.Onlyafractionofthecollectionisdisplayedatanyonetime.
Thefourmaingalleries-theMainGallery,theGalleryofEasternAntiquities,HyokeikanHallandtheGalleryofHoryu-jiTreasures-holdJapaneseart(includingsculpture,swords,lacquerwareandcalligraphy),archaelogicalfindsfromthroughoutAsia,Japanesearchaelogicalitems,andmasksandscrollsrespectively.
TheGalleryofHoryujiTreasuresisonlyopenonThursdaysandeventhen,ifitisrainingorhumid,canbesummarilyclosed.Someofthegalleriesexhibitsareover1000yearsoldandgreatcareistakentoprotectthemfromtheeffectsofhumidityanddampness.
KiteMuseum
TheKiteMuseum,justbehindTokyudepartmentstoreinShibuya-ku,islivingreprooftoallthoserinky-dinkkiteswithplainplasticsails,plywoodframesandaSundaydriverattheendofthestring.Mostofthe4000kiteshousedinthemuseumaretraditionalJapanesekites(EdoNishiki-EDako)buttherearesomefineexamplesfromChinaandotherAsiancountries.
Theframesaremainlybamboowhilethesailsaremadeof'washi',atypeofhandmadepapermadefromthekohzotree(aspeciesofmulberry)。
Thepaperisbothlightweightandstrong.Illustrationsarefirstoutlinedindarksumiinktorestrictthepigmentstothedesiredareasandthentheartistgoestotownonthedesignitself.KitescenesincludescowlingKabukiactors,samuraiwarriorshackingeachothertodeathagainstabusybackdropofpsychedelicswirlsandcutefluffy'HelloKitty'typeanimalsdoingunnaturalthings.
Themuseumissituatedonthe5thfloorofTaimeiken,awell-knownrestaurant,locatedindowntownTokyo.It'scrampedandpokeyandlacksexplanatorymaterial,butitsstillauniquemuseumwithauniquecollection.
Tokyoisservicedbytwomajorairports,NaritaandHaneda.Thereare12subwaylinesoperatedbytwocompanies.Thesubwayservicesareessentiallythesameandhavegoodconnectionsfromonetotheother,althoughtheydooperateunderseparatetick
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